What we liked about living in Odessa, Ukraine
We lived in Odessa, Ukraine as English teachers for two years from 2014 to 2016. Despite this being a period of great upheaval and change in the country, we had a good time living in Odessa. Here are some of the things we liked the most about it.
Best things about living in Odessa 1 – Our neighbours
We’ve lived in several cities, and our neighbours in Odessa were the best we’ve had. Our flat was in a courtyard, and there were a table and chairs in the middle. Neighbours from various flats would hang out together there in the summer, chatting and sometimes drinking and having BBQs. They never failed to invite us to join them and when they did, fed us lovely food and drink.
While we were living in Odessa, we shared the hallway with a family – parents, their son and the guy’s mum. She was really chatty. She didn’t speak any English, and our Russian was pretty non-existent at the start (it wasn’t that much better at the end either). However, she always chatted away to us, either by shouting with huge hand gestures or by whispering. She was brilliant. It was one of the reasons we started Russian lessons. We were all so chuffed when had our first conversation (it went something like “Today is hot. We go to beach. We swim“). One night I came home from work early. There was a knock at the door and Val was there. She handed me a plate of traditional pastries, told me they were warm and I should sprinkle salt on them (probably).
Lovely neighbours who feed you. Brilliant.
2. People really love animals
Most people like animals. Odessans seems to love them more than most. The stray cats and dogs can be fatter than the pets. There is usually at least one cat that lives on the steps of every convenience store. People go in, by a packet of cat food with their shopping, and feed the cat on the way out. In a street or courtyard, there will be a ‘pounce’ of cats (seriously, that seems to be the collective name. I Googled it). People living in the neighbourhood give them their food scraps (they often have their own food bowls) and build them houses. They even put blankets in them for the winter.
In the UK, we have the RSPCA and stray animals are collected up and taken to centres to be rehomed. In Odessa, neighbourhoods take care of their own stray animals. When you ask a student where they got their cat or dog from, often they say ‘from the street’.
3. 24-hour shopping.
In the UK the big supermarkets are open 24 hours. In Thailand, you have 24 hour 7-11s. Living in Odessa, they have both. Lots of supermarkets in the city centre are open all the time. We used to do our shopping on the way home from the pub at midnight. It’s not even particularly quiet at that time. There is a small convenience store on nearly every block which is also open constantly. They don’t just sell snack food either. You can get your fruit and veg and cheese, pasta, herbs and spices and breakfast cereal. They are open whenever you realise you’ve run out.
4. Ready-made food
While we are on the subject of shopping, let’s talk about ready-made food. I don’t mean like microwave meals or frozen pizza, I mean freshly prepared local cuisine. In the supermarkets, such as Tavriya V (found on the ground floor of Europa and Athena shopping malls in the centre, as well as other places in the city), the deli counter not only sells cheeses and meats, but also a variety of other fresh food. There’s a whole range of salads, as well as meat products such as cutlets, kebabs (known as shashlik) and chicken Kievs. You can buy vareniki (dumplings) with various fillings, stuffed pancakes, cabbage rolls and lots of types of potatoes. Some sell rotisserie chickens, as well as drumsticks and wings.
All these delicious looking dishes you can buy from your local supermarket.
5. Range of alcohol
Another awesome thing in these 24-hour supermarkets and convenience stores is the range of alcohol. One small shop will have two or three aisles full. Often one full aisle just of vodka! There’s a wide range of wine, both local, from the region and international. Armenia, as well as Ukraine, produces high-quality cognac and there are many types in even the small shops.
That’s not to mention the bars in Odessa!
6. The Beach
You can’t really talk about living in Odessa without mentioning the beach. It’s one of the main things to do. Odessa is perhaps not a conventional seaside resort, in that the beach is not next to the city centre. The city leads onto the port, with the beach stretching around the corner and for miles and miles to the south. Having said that, it isn’t that far to the beach. It’s an easy twenty-minute walk from the centre, through a park, and down lots and lots of steps. They do like steps in Odessa.
In the summer, bars and restaurants open up all along the ‘road’ next to the beach. Some open all year, but many just look like run-down shacks until May comes, when suddenly a full beachfront bar complete with terraces, sofas and sun loungers appears – seemingly out of nowhere. Every corner of the beach road has tables and chairs, and beer pumps selling local beer out of plastic glasses, perhaps with a BBQ to make shashlik (kebabs).
The beach itself is covered in sun loungers come summer, rented out by various people. They range in quality from broken wood to modern and soft, depending on how much you want to pay. None of them is very expensive. People walk up and down the beach selling ice creams, seafood, snacks and drinks.
An interesting thing about Odessa is that every woman wears a bikini. Everyone. It doesn’t matter how old or large they are, they happily show off their bodies. It’s brilliant. There is no ‘get your body beach-ready‘ in Odessa. If a woman has a body, she puts a bikini on it. I got stared at for wearing a tankini.
The Black Sea isn’t actually black. It’s often a kind of green colour. No one seems to know why it is actually called the Black Sea. Oddly, the water level never changes, so there isn’t a high and low tide. People swim all year round. We’ve been at the beach in February to see a man strip down to his speedos and wade into the water. Next to him, some children were playing dressed in woolly hats, gloves and earmuffs. It was that cold. On the feast of the Epiphany in January, it’s tradition to go for a swim in the sea. Nevermind that it could be below freezing. When we first arrived, the sea was actually frozen over. People all strip off and jump into the water.
7. The city centre in the summer
It’s not just the beach that’s a lovely place to be in the summer. The city centre is pretty nice too. Bars and restaurants on the main street of Deribasavskaya (after two years, we still can’t pronounce it properly) set up huge seating areas on the street and in the City Garden park, where you can sit back on a sofa and drink a cold beer. Buskers perform up and down the street, ranging from full bands with saxophone and drum kit to solo singers. People give horse and pony rides and there are several Cinderella-style carriages to ride in.
The Yamarka (Christmas style market) puts out lots of seating and is full of people sitting and standing around, eating and drinking. Odessans like to promenade up and down the street, dressed up to the nines in their best clothes which makes for great people watching. It’s a fantastic atmosphere.
With the beach and the city centre, and the cheap cost of living, we can’t see why more people don’t visit Odessa. Give it a try.
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Wow, what an excellent read!
We were recently in Ukraine but didn’t make it to Odessa but after reading this I think it’s not going to be long before we return 😊
When you covered all the food that you could buy from the supermarket, I think my stomach actually grumbled…it all looked so good!
The swimming in the freezing water may not be for me though 😉 The view looked great!
Thanks for sharing ☺️
I had first heard about Odessa in a novel of the author Irving Wallace, some years ago. Odessa seems like a nice city with lots of activities. The beach is one place I really love and Odessa looks to have a nice one there.
To be honest, I’ve never heard about Odessa but, after reading your amazing post, I’ll add it to my bucket list! Specially for the tasty food and how well they treat the animals 🙂
Odessa seems like a stunning and spectacular place. I would love to visit it one day for sure, Kate!
I am so ashamed that I didn’t care for Odessa when there. I was there so briefly but the city and I never connected… but I have literally never met a person who didn’t like the place, so I am SOOO eager to get back there!
It does depend on what part of it you see, for example, the area around the railway station is not the best looking and some of the suburbs aren’t that pretty. However, it has lovely parts, especially in the summer. Let us know if you’re heading back there and we’ll give you some tips. You can do our drinking route!
Thank you Kate & Kris. I have English teaching experience in China, I am male & single & thinking of living in Odessa for a while – a sea resort with some culture. Any advice on what would be a pleasant area to rent an apartment, perhaps near a park – I might bring my dog & cat.
It depends on where you would be working. Most people live in and around the city centre. It’s not a big city. Do you have English teaching qualifications?
What a talented writer you are! I smiled all the way through your article and learned a lot about Odessa in the process. Thank you!
A Kiwi whose lived in Odessa for a year and been 6 times previously, a couple to check out if I really wanted to live here. Its a long cold winter, but the description by Kate and Kris about summer is perfectly accurate. Unfortunately I am not going to encourage anyone to come, as we all know tourists ruin our travels and this place does fill up, so it is nice when it cools and the tourists go, but the summer energy is alive and vibrant and wonderful. Ive seen a lot of the world but this is a strangely wonderful place and i am yet to put my finger on exactly what it is. Maybe the mix of ex Soviet and the west and the unique culture and food. They are a very social people and Ive met some wonderfully beautiful and humble people but it would be remiss not to mention the scams. Too many to mention but just be careful. Westerners have a target on their back as wages are low. Keep track of your restaurant order and costs and the girls who want to take you to a place and share the profits of you being over charged etc etc. Otherwise I am perfectly happy here. Love it. And well written…a talent for writing and humour )))